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IDC DERMO works with experts to better understand skin and its realities.

IDC DERMO works with experts to better understand  skin and its realities.

The hyaluronic acids and peptides for the skin

 

 

By :

Dr. Emilie Bourgeault, BSc MD FRCPC, Dermatologist

Serge Yelle, PhD Plant Physiology, General Manager, IDC Dermo

 

The dynamic duo for youthful skin: hyaluronic acid and peptides.

What do they do and which types should you choose?

When biochemistry meets biology
Hyaluronic acid and Peptides at the service of skincare
 

Hyaluronic Acids - Essential moisturizing factors

Discovered in 1934 by Karl Meyer and John Palmer, hyaluronic acid has become a pillar of skin biochemistry. This glycosaminoglycan performs essential functions in the extracellular matrix, notably to densify and plump the skin. Often described for its ability to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid confers hydrating and viscoelastic properties to the skin. In the dermis, hyaluronic acid plays a structural role, contributing to the cohesion and providing support for collagen and elastin fibers, as well as other skin proteins, which together make up connective tissue. It is also involved in several cellular mechanisms, including cell differentiation and migration.

 

Aging affects the distribution and function of hyaluronic acid in the skin. The epidermis undergoes a marked reduction in hyaluronic acid, which reduces water retention and contributes to skin dehydration and atrophy. In the dermis, its function is altered by an increase in its affinity for other extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin, which reduces its ability to retain water, leading to loss of elasticity and reduced hydration.

 

Hyaluronic acid comes in several forms, each with its own specific features and cosmetic applications.  Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is a stabilized form in which the polymer chains are linked together, creating a three-dimensional network. This structure enables it to resist enzymatic and mechanical degradation in the skin for longer than non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid.

 

Acetylated hyaluronic acid, meanwhile, undergoes a modification to increase its water-binding capacity and make it more flexible, potentially facilitating skin penetration for topical applications.

 

Finally, hyaluronic acid comes in a range of molecular weights, from very low to very high. Low molecular weight molecules are known to penetrate deeper into the skin, where they can stimulate tissue repair from within. Medium-weight molecules can have anti-inflammatory and reparative effects, while high-molecular-weight molecules remain on the skin's surface, forming a moisturizing film that protects the skin barrier and reduces insensible water loss. In addition, fractionated forms of hyaluronic acid have been shown to stimulate skin repair, improve radiance and reduce wrinkle depth by binding to cell receptors such as CD44. Thus, its topical use in cosmetics not only helps to improve the skin's hydrated appearance and texture, but also plays a role in protecting it from external aggressors, thereby reducing the impact of cutaneous aging.

 

Peptides - Architects of the skin at the molecular level

 

Peptides are small amino acid polymers which, in cosmetics, act as true architects at the molecular level, modulating and renewing skin structure.

 

Among them, signal peptides are key players in the regeneration of skin structural proteins. By signalling or mimicking the biological processes involved in extracellular matrix synthesis, these peptides stimulate the production of essential components such as collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans and fibronectins. Depending on their nature, peptides have a wide range of activities, including smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, regenerating skin cells, increasing elasticity and much more.

 

Hexapeptide-3 is a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide with an amino acid sequence similar to that of the SNAP-25 protein, enabling it to compete with and modulate the SNARE complex, essential for acetylcholine release. By inhibiting this release, Hexapeptide-3 reduces muscle contraction and, consequently, the appearance of expression lines. This hexapeptide is also effective in curbing the overproduction and release of catecholamine hormones, such as adrenaline, which are associated with wrinkles caused by repetitive facial movements. Often cited as a non-invasive alternative to botulinum toxin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 is a peptide of choice in anti-aging strategies aimed at minimizing wrinkles and improving skin firmness.

Centella Asiatica extract, with its high concentration of biopeptides, has been shown to have stimulating properties for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Mechanisms of action include stimulation of fibroblasts, leading to a marked increase in the synthesis of type I collagen, a protein essential for maintaining dermal density. It also promotes elastin production, giving skin greater elasticity. What's more, the extract helps reduce inflammation and repair skin lesions, positioning it as a key ingredient in advanced anti-aging strategies.

 

As such, these peptides are not just active components, but biological messengers that influence the skin's cellular processes. They represent a class of cosmetic active ingredients with enormous potential for improving skin health and appearance.

 

Combining different grades of hyaluronic acid, of different molecular weights and shapes, with a high concentration of peptides would enable a dermo-cosmetic care product to deliver real anti-aging benefits to the skin.

 

 

 

IDC PUSHES BACK THE FRONTIERS OF DERMO-COSMETICS

By:

Nancy Labonte, Skin Care Specialist and Head of the Innovations Committee at IDC DERMO

Lionel Ripoll, PhD, Cosmetology - Department of Basic Sciences, Quebec University in Chicoutimi

 

BOOST Hyalu-Peptide by IDC: Innovation in Dermo-Cosmetic

 

IDC DERMO innovates and pushes back the frontiers of cosmetic formulation with the launch of BOOST Hyalu-Peptide, a densifying and plumping serum.  IDC fuses 13 types and grades of hyaluronic acid with a complex of over 400 peptides, offering a complete skin care formula.

 

Each type of hyaluronic acid in BOOST Hyalu-Peptide plays a crucial role, working synergistically to provide a comprehensive approach to reducing the signs of aging and improving overall skin texture. The use of a blend of hyaluronic acid forms optimizes skin density and health by acting on different levels of the skin, guaranteeing intense, long-lasting hydration. The higher molecular weights create a protective film on the skin's surface, reducing water loss, while the lower molecular weights act synergistically and penetrate deeper into the skin, offering improved elasticity and skin revitalization.

 

These 13 grades and forms of hyaluronic acid make this concentrated serum an important tool in the quest for hyaluronic skin health. 

But BOOST Hyalu-Peptide's innovation doesn't stop at hyaluronic acids.  It also lies in the synergistic use of peptides to create a unique and innovative anti-aging cosmetic product. These peptides, incorporated into the serum at clinically proven concentrations, offer an innovative approach to skin care, acting not only on hydration, but also on skin structure and resilience.

 

These unrivalled concentrations and varieties of hyaluronic acid and peptides make BOOST Hyalu-Peptide the perfect addition to any skincare routine, to densify and plump skin on the face, neck and around the eyes. 

 

 

 

 

by Mélina Baron – May 23, 2024